Dining In | McGrath
McGrath Magazine - Issue 9 - 01/04/2020

Dining In

Issue 9
1/04/2020 | 6 MIN READ

Sydney’s No.92 redefines the classic takeout

In an old boot factory in Sydney’s Inner West, the team of No.92 are doing things a little differently. After opening as a boutique restaurant and wine bar late last year, owner Angela Kasimis’ plans for the space have taken a turn, as the world is plunged into lockdowns, self-isolation and social distancing. 


Like so many others, restaurateurs are facing a particularly steep challenge in the age of Covid-19. Unable to operate as normal, their businesses are adapting to a world where takeout is king, a model that is typically the domain for fast food, not fine dining. And yet, Kasimis and her team have taken it in their stride, offering their customers a slice of No.92 to go.


From inside their refurbished terrace space on Glebe Point Road, Kasimis and her Head Chef John Lyons (The Savoy Hotel, Racasse) have produced a takeaway menu that rivals the eat-in offerings of some of the city’s best restaurants. From crispy Dutch cream potatoes to Fremantle octopus roasted in nduja, these are dishes that promise to elevate your at-home dining experience.  


Not just a food offering, No.92 have also put together a selection of cocktail kits that will bring the bar to you. Beautifully packaged with fresh ingredients, each DIY cocktail requires a splash of ice, making it the perfect treat for aperitivo (social distancing style).


This unique approach to the current situation comes as no surprise to anyone who has encountered No.92 before. Moody, evocative and opulent, the space is unlike anything else in the city, more reminiscent of European salons than your typical Inner West eatery. 


As is often the case for buildings that have had many lives, Kasimis bought a space that needed a bit of TLC. Envisioning an elegant revival for the heritage terrace, she engaged Sydney-based practice, Pattern, who transformed No.92 into an intimate bar and restaurant that pays homage to its history in a context that is decidedly modern. 


Downstairs, guests are greeted in an open, warm and timber-adorned space with expansive windows that invite guests to sit and watch the world outside. Site-specific works by Taiwanese-Australian artist Angie Pai swirl around the Victorian spaces while antique light fittings nod to the site’s history. A feature arch frames the main bar, where seasonally selected drops by the enigmatic new Sydney wine collective, Super Super have been curated to compliment the space and its menu.


Upstairs, smaller, more intimate and exquisitely decorated dining rooms invite guests to lounge in old-world charm. Defined by a more luxurious direction, the dining and lounging experiences take place upon plush rugs, custom marble-surfaced tables, dramatic, broody and artful rooms across three different spaces. The second level celebrates a vintage splendour unique to No. 92 with a pared-back, yet intoxicating grandeur with a heightened residential appeal for guests. 


No. 92 is a story of history, connection and soul. Through the heartfelt passion of Kasimis, Pattern and John Lyons’ culinary brilliance, the team have created a different type of dining destination – one that feels less like a typical bar, but more like a space to relax, enjoy and even take home with you.